Roman Treasures to be Discovered: Gardun/Tilurium near Trilj

The town of Trilj, just north of Split and on the Sinj to Mostar road, does not seem to have too much going for it at first glance. It is located all on one through road, and I must have driven through it 100 times in my life with the only thought being if I would have to slow down for a traffic policeman.

It seems I have been missing something...

First up was a visit to the oldest working mill in Dalmatia, where little has changed in the 600 years of operation (learn more here).

"And over this hill are the remains of a Roman military camp," said Ante Latinac, former head of the Trilj Tourist Board, and my guide for the day. From the town, which is dominated by the Cetina river running through it, the hill did not look as though it was guarding anything special, but there were secrets dating back 2000 years behind it.

According to Latinac, the wife of former Croatian Prime Minister Sanader has been instrumental in uncovering the secrets of Tilurium, which is located at Gardun, just outside Trilj. Aerial photographs showed an unusual formation in the grass and, as the existence of a Roman camp was known, excavation began.

The former sleeping quarters are extremely well preserved. In the words of the information sign:

Military Sleeping Quarters (centuriae)

They are located in the south-eastern part of the camp, where the terrain gently slopes towards the south. Due to the levelling of the ground, the preserved substructures were filled with stone. Wooden beams were built into the walls, and their imprints have been preserved in the mortar. The beams visible on the facade were linked by vertical beams passing through the wall. The southern and eastern walls of the building were supported by buttresses, and afer the completion of the exploration, they have been conserved and partially reconstructed. The room enclosed by these two walls in the south-eastern part has also been conserved. The excavations have indicated that to the north, in parallel with the explored complex, there are other buildings consisting of the same structural elements, and this notion was used during the reconstruction of this complex. On the basis of this ground plan, we can rightfully assume that these were military sleeping quarters (centuriae), and in three cases such assumption has been confirmed by archaeological excavations. Originally, six centuriae made up a unit by one legion cohort, which numbered 500 troops.

Trilj has long been an important post in the defences of the region, with its strategically important location on the way to Bosnia - here is the town from above, not far from Tilurium.

Excavation work has stopped, presumably due to funding issues, but Tilirium is an important part of the Roman road heritage of Dalmatia, a tourism heritage which the regional tourist board is looking to promote more heavily.

The site is open and entrance is free, with access through the courtyard of a very friendly local family, whose house is in rather a curious position - perched several metres above the sleeping quarters - and presumably directly on top of some other Roman treasures.

What was once military sleeping quarters is today an adventure playground for the local canine population.

Meanwhile, on top of the as-yet-unexcavated Roman remains, it is feeding time for the pigs.

And the chickens...

An exceptionally beautiful and tranquil place, and a fusion of modern rural Dalmatian rural living and thousands of years of history. So the next time you are driving through Trilj, wait awhile and find out what secrets are within its close vicinity. To learn more about Tilurium, click here. 

Promoting Tourism Through Heritage on Vis: The Case of Fort George

Dalmatia has a rich and varied cultural heritage, reflecting - among others - the Greek, Roman and Venetian eras, whose architectural legacy is there for all to see and enjoy.

The island of Vis also has a very strong British tradition dating back to the 18th Century, and it is on this island where one can find the oldest cricket club in mainland Europe, for example.

And there are fortresses, built by the British and still defining monuments on the island all these years later. A sad reality of the troubled economic times is that there is less money available for maintenance, and several buildings are therefore falling into disrepair.

One fortress which looks as though it has a bright future, however, is Fort George on Vis, which last weekend celebrated its 200th anniversary, and distinguished guests included British Ambassador David Slinn and British Vice Admiral John McAnaly.

The fortress, which is now being operated by European Travel Ventures under a 25-year concession, has opened as an arts facility, complete with restaurant, outdoor stage and arts venue, while undergoing extensive renovation. To learn more about the new-look Fort George, click here.   

Makarska Set to Break 1 Million Overnight Stays

The beaches of the Makarska Riviera have always been a major attraction to holidaymakers in Dalmatia, and with very good reason! A wide variety of stunning beaches overlooking the pristine Adriatic make it an ideal spot for a relaxing holiday.

The tourist numbers this year are going to break post-war records, with the millionth overnight stay for 2013 expected in October, according to a report in Dalmacijanews. The numbers are up 11% for the first 8 months of the year compared to the corresponding period in 2012, while August alone was up 12%.

Tonci Lalic, head of the Makarska Tourist Board told the news portal that the major tourism growth this year has come from Poland, up 36%, while Bosnian guests were second - up 6% despite an EU border now separating the two countries. Other notable increases were Germans, Norwegians, Swedes, Italians and Croatians.

Fox News Features Split as Charming and Affordable City

There is no denying that the international profile of Split and the Dalmatian coast in general has been raised in the last year, and there are now many more column inches about - and visitors to - the city. The latest piece to appear in the international press is from Fox News, whose article 6 Charming and Affordable European Cities You Haven't Visited Yet includes the Dalmatian capital. Here is what they had to say:

SPLIT, CROATIA

History comes alive on the Mediterranean

You don't have to remember the name Diocletian to have a blast in Split, a city of more than 250,000, but you can thank him for pioneering the notion of Split as a lesser-known Mediterranean getaway. A Roman emperor who abdicated his position in the face of rival claims, Diocletian built an amazing palace here, completed in A.D. 305, and to this day the city has one of Europe's finest collections of Roman ruins.

Why Split is second to none. From Diocletian's day to the present, Split has done an exceptional job of preserving its past, making it a first-rate destination for immersing yourself in living history--even in the face of the civil war that rocked Croatia in the 1990s. This UNESCO World Heritage Site invites you to balance your beach-going and nightlife with visits to its Roman ruins, medieval forts, Romanesque churches dating back to the 12th and 13th centuries, plus Gothic, Renaissance, and Baroque palaces and other noteworthy buildings; a historic district, archeological museum, and of course the ruins of Diocletian's palace round out the historical offerings.

Must-see sights. When you yearn to return to the land of the living, drop yourself on Bacvice beach, a crescent-shaped stretch of sand that rivals any of the tonier--and pricier--Mediterranean beaches. We won't tell if all you want to do is stretch out on a blanket and soak up some rays. But when the sun goes down, dip a toe into Split's lively bar scene, with popular "crawls" around the neighborhood of the Roman palace ruins. In the morning, get classy again with a trip to the Metrovic Gallery, spotlighting the work of Croatia's best-known sculpture, Ivan Mestrovic.

Where to eat. Buffet Fife serves big portions of grilled local meats and fish (Trumbiceva Obala 11, 385/21-345-223).

Where to stay. Hotel Globo is a 10-minute walk to Split's historic district (Lovretska Ulica 18, hotelglobo.com).

Get there. Split is 140 miles northwest of Dubrovnik, Croatia, a three-hour drive.

To read the whole article, click here.

Olympic Gold Medallist to Swim in Faros Marathon in Stari Grad

One of Dalamtia's most challenging and internationally recognised sporting events takes place on the island of Hvar on Saturday August 31, when the 38th Faros Marathon will be once again hosted by the town of Stari Grad. 

The marathon, a 16 km swimathon from Croatia's oldest town to the tip of the Kabal Peninsula and back, is one of the world's most challenging races, and continues to attract some big names to take part. This year's field has been boosted with the confirmation that reigning Olympic champion Oussana Mellouli will be taking part. 

The race itself starts at 08:00 from the harbour by the courthouse, with the first swimmers returning some time after 11:00. Learn more about one of Dalamtia's most important sporting traditions on the official website, or take a tour of the day in the video below.  

Visiting Dalmatia Later This Year? Full Off-Season Jadrolinija Timetable

While tourism in Dalmatia is mostly focused on the summer months, there is plenty of interest out of the peak season months, and with the cooler temperature, Central Dalmatia is an attractive option for a late season break or holiday. The beaches may not be so crowded or water so enticing, but there is plenty to discover away from the beach all year. 

Jadrolinija has published its winter timetable, which is now available in full below. The national ferry company runs two timetables annually, the current summer schedule from June 1 - September 30, and a reduced service which comes into effect on October 1. Useful information when planning that late season visit. 

Unusual Dalmatian Sports: Glavomet... or Headball

Dalmatia is well-known for having a range of unique games, and the summer months offer a good chance to watch and even take part.

Probably the most famous game is called picigin, which is played in shallow water, most famously at Bacivce beach in Split, where the objective of the game is to keep a small ball in the air for as long as possible. Frantic efforts to keep the ball airborne lead to some spectacular diving, and picigin is well established as part of the Split scene.

Not far away, on Firule beach, there is another unusual and unique sport called glavomet - or headball. As the name suggests, the only part of the body to make contact with the ball is the head. There are two teams of two in shallow water, with two goals, and the aim is to score as many goals as possible in the opposing goal.

Check out the video below for more of a visual explanation, or head to Firule beach on Sunday August 25 from 10:00 to watch the glavomet championship taking place - it is very competitive!